Bali

Tegallalang Terraced rice fields

Bali began with rest. We had great intentions to hit the Gilli Islands and Lomboc prior to my sister, Michal, joining us two weeks after our arrival. As soon as we settled in to our lovely room and made friends with Chocolat, the Inn's dog, we decided to stay put and just enjoy what was within a scooter ride away. This caused some concern, as in, will we regret not doing more while we are in Bali? What if we do these things and then Michal wants to do them when she gets here? We had to make a decision and not look back with regret. So we stayed put, in our little fan cooled room. Our friend, Erica, hooked us up with the owner of the Legian Inn, Oka, and for $11 a night we had a basic room, with tea and hot water available throughout the day, served to our patio area, free laundry, use of a small refrigerator and a great location in the heart of Legian Beach.

Chocolat

Legian is in the Kuta area, which includes some of the island's most popular party beaches. We were sweating in our beds well before the party goers hit the streets, but if you're 20 something, Australian and thirsty, this is the place to be. We were here to give surfing our best effort and excitedly scootered ourselves to the beach, rented two boards and hit the perfectly sized beginner waves. I stood as close to the surf instructor, with his private lesson, and jumped on my board as he instructed his pupil to do so. Needless to say, I was tearing up some whitewash. That night it poured rain and we we returned to surf the next day, the water and beach was so packed with plastic garbage we couldn't stand being in the water. There is is literally so much plastic in the water that it gets all over your body, face and hair.

Self-explanatory, but way worse in person

It's disgusting and terrifying to think what this is doing to sea life. There are signs along the beach apologizing for this pollution, also stating that for roughly five months a year, during rainy season (roughly December through April), there is increased garbage volume in the water, they are aware of it and doing the best they can to combat it. Bulldozers pace the waters edge nearly all day taking loads of garbage and wood particles, as in very large tree limbs that could seriously f you up if you get caught in it's path. If you are looking to surf in Bali during rainy season, we suggest you steer clear of the Kuta area. Changgu is a much cleaner beach and a rad little area with great restaurants and laid back vibe. But for clean water, white sand beaches head to the Sanur or Turtle Island areas...or the east side of the island.

Surfers at Turtle Island

The Legian area is great for affordable, delicious food and shopping for all budgets. We had our favorite restaurants, a local joint serving up the best mie goreng and cap cay, we easily ate here ten times during the month and it was the first stop after picking Michal up at the airport; a burger joint, Fat Tony's, our second favorite hamburger in the world with amazingly fresh, hot and skinny fries. The burgers are on the small side, served in styrofoam containers, so you may need two, and do your best to reuse your styrofoam. When we wanted to spend a bit more money and needed our coffee shake fix we'd head to Tommy's, a great restaurant proudly serving locally sourced foods, rinsed in filtered water, selling goods made by street children and a book exchange. Every meal here begins with an ice cold washcloth, need I say more? It's easy to eat affordably all throughout Bali, just stay off the main tourist streets to find the best deals and eat as much mie or nasi goreng as possible, traditionally eaten for breakfast, but delicious anytime of day and at it's most expensive, about $3.00.

In preparation for the arrival of my sister, we booked a villa near Changgu. This was for the week of Christmas and we found rentals to be more difficult to find and jumped on a two bedroom villa with a pool and air conditioning. This was the largest of seven artist villas in a small community near Changgu, with a nearby French bakery and cafe as well as other delicious restaurants (more expensive than Legian area). We met with the manager and did a walk through three days after booking the place and couldn't believe the size of it. Including pool, 24-hour security and housekeeper. The manager / tenant had made a mistake when listing it on Airbnb and we were stoked at our amazing luck to be paying half price.

After moving in, it became apparent that "housekeeper" is an extremely loose term, meaning the gecko turds and large yellow stains on the white luxurious down comforter are overlooked, dishes with caked food, a bacteria infested kitchen sponge, an empty filtered water container and a completely unusable gas stove. We spoke up, requested the comforters be removed and cleaned, the sheets changed, new towels, we paid for more filtered water, bought a new dish sponge, cleaned all the dishes and spent as much time in Michal's room, where the air conditioning worked gloriously. The master bedroom was so large, including a monstrous walk in closet, that the single unit a/c did little to cool the room. The housekeepers did a great job sweeping the floors daily, which is a must in a thatch roof villa with a host of pooping geckos. The pool was refreshing and cleaned regularly, however the water tasted like iron and the white parts of our swimsuits changed to a permanent rust color.

A week here was too long, but we ate some incredible foods, including Christmas dinner at La Laguna. Google this place, it's unique, creative, delicious and has some of the best sunsets in the area. Changgu also has some incredible restaurants for all budgets. One of our favorites was Crate. Fun, upbeat staff, hearty sized, fresh, affordable dishes with unique flavor combinations.

This is the second time along our trip that we have had a guest. We had pre-planned to meet with our first guest, Ernie, in Greece, about a month before we left, making a basic plan, getting our must-do's on paper and then agreeing on the most popular between the three of us, but most importantly giving permission to speak up when we needed alone time and that it was okay to do things separately. We did not have this luxury with our second guest, my sister Michal. My sister is similar to me in that sometimes the thought of planning stuff makes us want to vomit. It causes me some stress and anxiety, a response similar to writing a term paper. It's annoying and procrastinating just feels better, until it doesn't. To make her first week as relaxing as possible we thought a week in the villa would be best, focusing on surf spots, cool hangouts, shopping and eating. As I already mentioned, a week in the villa was too much.

If we had to do it again we would have booked the villa for two or three nights to allow for jet lag to pass and then head to the next stop, after fully discussing what it was we all wanted out of our time together. Because we did not do this we had some miscommunications, some hurt feelings and awkward moments. We learned that taking the time to sit down together, do some planning, discuss expectations and verbalizing that it's okay to take alone time, even whole excursions separately. I think this is important for anyone planning a trip with someone else. Jason and I learn from one another every day. You'd think we'd have this travel thing down to a smooth and easy process. We don't. We bicker, we roll eyes, we say "I told you so", quite frankly, sometimes we just get annoyed with one another. All day, every day with one another is something we have never done before. It's something we've never wanted to do before. We enjoy and appreciate our time apart as well as our time together and this has been a true test. He's still my absolute favorite travel partner and I his, because I told him so, that's how I know.

The three of us did absolutely agree on visiting Tanah Lot and it's an absolute must if you find yourself in this part of Bali. It's an easy day trip north on a beautifully paved road. You can't actually enter the temple, but you can cross, at low tide, behind where these people are standing (in the photo below). For a nominal donation you get a blessing, a flower and access to a fresh water spring to wash your face.

Tanah Lot

This area is will catered to tourist, so once you are done looking at the temple, trust me, it is quite exciting to look at and watch the Hindu keepers of the temple cross the sea and offer their offerings, you can do all of your souvenir shopping, have some overpriced ice cream and coffee. Michal and I were stopped a number of times and asked to take photos with people...because we are so white. True story. We felt famous.

Proof that not only are we white, we are famous

Oh, and Michal and I touched a python. Jason did not.

UBUD

We headed inland, to Ubud, on two scooters. Ubud was made famous in Eat, Pray, Love and this is evident as soon as you pull into town. Amidst the hoards of tourists is a charming, funky, creative, granola eating community of yogis, locals and ex-pats. We could have easily stayed a week here, in our villa among the rice fields, including a beautiful swimming pool that didn't taste like rust water. We spent New Year's Eve here and were awakened at midnight by explosions all around us, the Balinese love their fireworks. Although they are illegal here, they are easy to get and were going off daily since arriving in Bali. We walked out our front door and witnessed the most spectacular fireworks display we have every seen. Each village provides their own firework show, and there are numerous villages in this area. For as far as the eye could see, in all directions were fireworks for about 15-20 minutes. I watched with my hand instinctually on my heart and my mouth agape.

Our villa in Ubud

Ubud is littered with yoga studios. I went to two and enjoyed both. The first one, Ubud Yoga House, was deeply set in a rice field, up a dilapidated one-way scooter trail. The instructor was young and limber and said a few cuss words, which I appreciate immensely. The class was advertised to be one hour but was easily 90 minutes, complete with cold water and washcloth the end of class. This class was perfect for beginner and advanced students. The second class I took was at the famous Yoga Barn, where I met up with a friend from yoga teacher training. This was easily the most challenging class I have ever taken and many of the poses were new to me and unbelievably difficult. Amidst roughly 60 people and one sarcastic instructor I found comfort knowing Christina was somewhere in the crowd. I enjoyed the 90 minute class immensely but certainly don't recommend Power Yoga for beginners or for those who don't like crowds. Jason met up with us at the Yoga Barn restaurant where we had an overpriced hippie breakfast, delicious but small portions, especially after a yoga ass kicking.

There is a lot to do in Ubud, it's impossible to be bored here. There's the Monkey Forest, right in town. I don't like monkeys and these are extra nasty in their thievery and lack of personal space, so I was at yoga while Michal and Jason frolicked with their ancestors. After the park closes the monkeys can be seen racing across roofs, power lines and crossing the street. One jumped on Michal and starting pulling at her earring. First rule when a monkey jumps on you, don't scream or run, just pay it cool. That's another reason I stayed clear of this tourist destination, I would not have played it cool. Besides crapping my pants I would have swatted it, like a fly, and then most likely kicked it.

Michal and I did the popular sunrise Campuchan Ridge walk, which is short and easy and worth it for the views, but hurry because the views are being obstructed by buildings.

Now you know why Jason's our photographer

We spent a few hours traipsing the Tegallalang terraced rice fields (pictured top of page), worth the visit but be advised that the entrance fee does not include all the rice fields, a number of the plot owners have set up additional "donation" pass gates. We did not know this and did not come prepared with small bills. I would have loved to have donated to all of them, but I simply didn't have small change, so come prepared with a pocket full of small bills.

While in Ubud we watched a Kecak Fire Dance, took a tour of a coffee plantation and tasted their variety of teas (mostly sugar and thereby delicious) and coffees, including the famous weasel poop coffee, otherwise known as Luwak coffee. Google it to learn more, these weasels are smart, but overworked and exploited. It tastes like coffee, not poop, I promise and is ridiculously expensive.

It was hot this day and before heading to the coffee plantation, which truth be told we were kindly, gently wrangled into by one of their employees while parking for the Tegenungan Waterfall. We had only planned on going to the waterfall, not drink poop coffee. So, alas, here we are at the amazing, fresh water, cold and forceful waterfall.

It's worth the trip and entrance fee...and walking the hundreds of steps down to get to it. The force of the water pulls you toward the impact zone, then spits you out in its self made baby waves.

Michal had suggested hiking a mountain, so after some research we headed up to Mt. Batur, she to hike and we to lounge by the lake. The reviews of this place were mixed, some saying you'd need a guide to do the hike, others saying you don't really need a guide and to go ahead and do it yourself, but be ready for some angry, pushy guides. We arrived, to a lot of people walking off the mountain, after an extremely cloudy sunrise (this is a popular tourist attraction for sunrise), with their guides and tour vans. The plan upon arrival was to not pay for a guide, it's a 5k walk up a basic hill, okay "volcano" if you want to get technical. So, just for shits and giggles I ask at the front desk what guided walks they offer and he tells me anywhere up to six hours. Um. Hmmm. Where exactly do you spend six hours up there, I think to myself. Michal meets a guide near the public restroom who informs her that she will be hassled to book a guide but she doesn't technically need one. So I walked with her, past the two signs saying you are required to have a guide at this UNESCO World Heritage site, all the while being followed by two verbose guides. I turned back and she kept walking. They asked me to return with them to explain to their boss that I was not hiking and that the girl I was with was not my friend. I walk back to our scooters (Michal has the key to one of them) and am quickly cussed out by presumably this guys boss. He's in my face, dropping f-bombs, blah blah. I'm stunned, mouth off a little, look for any kind of support from the other guides, or white people, getting none, I get on our scooter and we're off, wishing everyone a Happy New Year, while he continues dropping f-bombs. At this point I'm shaken. I don't know what they will do to my sister and I'm upset that we just didn't have her pay for a stupid guide. I don't want to go back to the scene of the crime to pick her up in three hours and am anxious. First of all this place has a creepy feel. It all starts to get weird feeling about 10k from the actual mountain. We were approached by a local on his scooter who persistently got us to pull over and informed us he did so to gain good karma points for informing us of police up ahead who would ask us for $100US , assuming we don't have international driver's licenses. We thanked him and zipped off before he could request his good karma fee. The weather wasn't that good this day, it was dark and gloomy, with rain on the horizon. As we pulled into a visit point overlooking the lake and mountain, beautiful, but I said "I don't have a good feeling about this place", this was after being ran down by a woman, also out for karma points, and was wrangled into paying a $1 for a hood ornament and blessing. I think her blessing was actually a curse.

After drinking some over priced tea and coffee at a hotel restaurant overlooking the lake we went back in to the valley and perched ourselves on a small hill, just outside of the hike's entrance. And we waited. At one point I disguised myself in a poncho and Jason's helmet, blended in with the other tourists on wheels and drove past the parking lot and Michal's scooter. There were a few people sitting in the parking lot, but just my sister's scooter sitting there. I started to feel better and returned to our hill to wait. We finally saw her, waived frantically and watched her get on her scooter and start to drive. We drove ahead and when she didn't catch up we returned to our hill perch, where she was parked, with two flat tires. Phew! I thought they'd syphon our gas, flat tires, this we can deal with, I hope. They left just enough for me to shakily drive about 2 miles, while Jason found a repair shop and Michal was picked up by a friendly passerby, who also offered her lunch. By now it's raining, just a little. We pull up to the repair station and they said "oh, you hiked without a guide? They don't like that." Luckily they didn't puncture the tires (or syphon the gas), they were quickly filled with air and we were off. So, technically I don't think you need a guide, after all it was a GUIDE that told us this, but it's worth the expense (I don't actually know how much it is to do this hike, seriously, people do it in sandals) for peace of mind and not to be harassed. Also, the lake is not one you can actually swim in and the hot springs is not only shockingly over priced, but has a staunchly creepy vibe. This was our worst experience in Bali, but we kind of chuckle at it. If this is the scariest, most stressful event of our trip, we got off gently.

We decided to hit up a beach on the east coast and were pleasantly surprised to find clean beaches and all three of us were excited to snorkel.

We booked this through our hotel, knowing we could pay a third less with an outfitter in town, or at one of the nearby restaurants (there were only four), but for the sake of ease we happily paid and were picked up the next morning. We had asked to go to The Blue Lagoon area and our guide talked us out of it, as it had rained the night before and there would be garbage and murky water. So we went to a little outcropping not far from our hotel and enjoyed some deep sea snorkeling. It wasn't deep sea but the waves were crashing hard into this outcropping and we were the only snorkelers out there, so yeah, it was scary, although all of us acted tough, I was lucky that I had put on my waterproof Depends this day. We jumped in and were instructed to "not swim that way!" So we swam the other way and enjoyed some spectacular sea life with only a few plastic bags.

To end our trip we decided to head out to watch "real" surfers at Uluwatu. Uluwatu, Impossibles and Padang Padang are famous surf spots among experienced and pro surfers. Hoping to get some pointers, as in how to balance on a surfboard in water that is over your knee caps, we headed out and searched for a good seat. It was flat. There were two patient surfers out there, and they did actually catch good sized waves and it was fascinating because there is no beach access at Uluwatu. The small town is perched on tall cliffs and the surfers walk down a number of stairs, through the little tourist chotski shops and paddle out through a cave. It's intense.

The paddle out to Uluwatu surf break

Also in Uluwatu is the must see Uluwatu Temple, at sunset. You can't get into most of the temple itself but you can walk around the majority of it and there are spectacular views from here. You can make reservations for a Kecak Fire Dance here too, which I think would be worth it, as we could hear it and it sounded better than the one we saw in Ubud. The sunset from here is absolutely worth the effort to make it here (which is really no effort at all if you have wheels). In closing, if you come to Bali, rent a scooter; don't come to the Kuta area, if you want to swim, from December through April, but if Bali is on your list of places to go, make every effort to come here, it is beautiful, the people are warm and kind, the food delicious, and the non-polluted beaches are gorgeous. Shopping at the discount surf brand stores is kinda fun too.

Sunset from Uluwatu Temple